Kelowna, B.C. - Summerland, B.C.

This year, I planned to pick up my cross-Canada cycling tour where I left off in 2015, the University of British Columbia Okanagan campus, just outside of Kelowna.

I drove here over a couple of days with my girlfriend, Andrea, enjoying the mountains and many of the same spots I had cycled through in 2015, only this time without the physical exertion and flat tires.

Yesterday morning, Sunday, September 4, when we arrived in Kelowna, I got on my bike at the UBC campus, and cycled to our hotel in Kelowna itself.

Andrea's sister flew in to meet us for the afternoon, and she will be driving home with Andrea as I go off on my bike.  

Today I mounted up at 10:00 and headed east, up into the hills above Kelowna, to join the Kettle Valley Railway trail.  It was supposed to be my easiest day, under one hundred kilometres to Summerland via the KVR.

   

From Kelowna up to the KVR was a twenty kilometre ride, with a total climb of over 1,000 metres!  Despite the steep grade, it was actually a really lovely ride, through orchards, past horses and vineyards, all with a view of Lake Okanagan and Kelowna down below.

Eventually though, the pavement met a forestry road, where the incline got even steeper, and pedaling through the gravel and dirt was getting me virtually nowhere.

I ended up pushing my bike most of the way up the four kilometres or so before meeting the trail itself.

I had expected the climb up to the KVR to be the most challenging portion of the day, but actually riding the KVR was at times extremely tough.  The grade was wonderful, since the trail used to be the rail bed, but the condition of the trail--which for long stretches is also a road--is much better suited for a mountain bike or ATV than hybrid commuter bicycle sans suspension loaded down with many pounds of rider and baggage.

Despite the rough riding, however, the scenery and isolation was amazing.  For some time I had more views of the lake to my right.

Then, about ten kilometres after joining the KVR I got to cross this trestle:

The original trestle was burnt in the big Kelowna-area forest first a few years ago, but volunteers and donors have rebuilt it.  Apparently there are many more of them in the direction opposite of the one I was traveling (i.e., roughly north vs. south), but this was the only one I got to cross.

I took my first break along a stretch of trail bounded on both sides by rock.  To the west the rocks were about double my height, but easily climbable, so I climbed up and had this view of the lake and Kelowna way down below.

For the next twenty-forty kilometres the trail was much more isolated, and I saw no more than a dozen other cyclists, ATVers, and drivers.

This was at a place called Chute Lake, where there's actually a little resort area.

After Chute Lake the trail began descending at a grade of about 2% as it switched-backed and wound its way towards Penticton.

Back when the KVR was actually a railroad, the route passed through the Adra Tunnel.  Now, the tunnel is apparently unsafe, so a steep shortcut has replaced it:

Volunteers are trying to raise money to restore the tunnel, and I guess they have opened up the first 100 metres or so.  I went down the trail to check it out. 

Honestly, I got spooked and decided not to enter.  I would probably want a companion and a good flashlight if I was going to go inside.  Anyway, it was pretty cool to see.

Once past the Adra Tunnel, the south end of Lake Okanagan became visible, and I could see Penticton and the lake's southern shore, and Summerland across on the western side.

For a wonderful brief stretch the trail here was actually paved, and it passed through another tunnel.

The trail went back to gravel on the other side of the tunnel, but now it was much better maintained, and the trail's traffic also increased dramatically as I neared Penticton.  Soon I was cycling through vineyards, again.  I "borrowed" a couple of grapes at this spot.

Out of interest, I cycled a bit of a longer way through Penticton then was necessary, just to see it, and get some cash at a bank.

Just where I was about to join Highway 97, heading north on the lake's western shore, I stopped for a very late lunch at A&W.  Actually this timing was very fortuitous, because it actually started raining while I was inside eating, and had stopped by the time I came out!

My motel in Summerland was about ten kilometres north of Penticton.  Highway 97 here is right next to the lake, and at a couple spots there were nice roadside turnoffs.

It was nearly 17:00 by the time I arrived in Summerland.

I had cycled about 98 kilometres by the time I reached my motel.

It took me 5:30 of riding time, at an average speed of only 17 kmph!  I had planned to ride the KVR tomorrow to Princeton, but decided now I would take the highway instead, even though it would be mean doubling back through Penticton.

Revelstoke, B.C. - Kelowna, B.C.

I was up at 6:30 to brew some coffee and eat a breakfast of McDonald's parfaits and a muffin I'd bought the night before.  I rolled out of my room just before 7:00.

Rather than get right onto the highway, I elected to leave Revelstoke via this single lane bridge instead:

It crosses the Columbia River parallel to the Trans-Canada highway bridge.

Unlike prior mornings, this one was already fairly warm and I was hot in no time at all. Nonetheless the first couple hours of riding were very lovely.

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For the most part I cycled through valleys, including past the particularly gorgeous Three Valley Lake.

I stopped briefly to see the countless busloads of Asian tourists lined up at the public washroom at the Craigellachie rest stop, where the last spike of the Canadian Pacific Railway was driven in (unfortunately I did not photograph the real attraction, the Asian tourists).

I reached Sicamous (about 75 kilometres from Revelstoke) around 10:00, quite pleased with my progress.  I stopped at A&W for a plate of eggs and toast and to refill my water.  Today I was only carrying about a litre and a half, since I knew I would be passing through plenty of spots where I could refill or buy more.

I took my sweet time on the shady A&W patio before heading south through the town and joining highway 97A into the Okanagan.

The highway runs tight along Mara Lake for about fifteen kilometres or so.  

Certainly the view is wonderful here, but the cycling was not ideal, as the shoulder is very narrow or even nonexistent, and traffic was considerable.

At a place called Grindrod a road called Enderby Grindod Road branches off the highway.  I was tempted to take it, as it looked like a much more enjoyable (i.e., quieter) route, but I hestitated until I saw an older, white-bearded, leather-clad motorcyclist stopped at the side of the road.  I went over to ask him which way I should go to get to Enderby and he said to take the local road for sure.  "It's great, no hills, less traffic, I've biked it myself."

I am really glad I asked him, because the ten kilometres or so I rode on this stretch was probably the most enjoyable part of my day.  I nearly had the road to myself, and it passed through some very pastoral settings, including vineyards, cornfields, and, ultimately, the Splatsin First Nation.

It was noon when I got to Enderby, 110 kilometres or so from Revelstoke.

There I stopped at a gas station to refill my water (I had already drank nearly 3.5 L, and the day was only getting hotter and hotter).  

I was now over halfway, and I felt pretty good about that, but the most enjoyable part of the day was defintely behind me.

I continued to make good time between Enderby and Vernon, but the intensity of the sun made the ride difficult, and the highway was now extremely busy.  I stopped more than once to apply sunscreen to my cheeks (most of the rest of my skin is covered with clothing, including special white sun sleeves I wear on my arms and legs). 

I was very pleased with the time I was making up to Vernon, and I got there just before 14:00 (so I had done close to 150 kilometers in seven hours, including stops).

I pulled into a plaza along the highway and stopped at Booster Juice for some lunch.  Here I really took a long break, even plugging in my phone and watching a couple of innings of baseball.

Eventually, a little before 15:00, I decided I should get going.  Vernon's not that far from Kelowna, but of course now it was the hottest part of the day, and I knew there was some climbing invovled.  

I had no idea the extent to which the highway climbs coming out of Vernon, so I was in for a surprise.  My bike computer says it was 39 degrees Celsius, which I think is possible given that Environment Canada said 36, and I was above pavement.  A steep climb at almost 40 degrees alongside significant traffic after having already cycled 150 kilometres is not my idea of a pleasant way to spend the afternoon.  

I was rewarded, however, with a) a sense of triumph and b) views of Kalamalka Lake, which has got to be one of Canada's prettiest lakes.  This picture does not come close to doing it justice, of course, but you can just see the turquoise water over the highway before I left the lake behind.  The colour of the water reminded me of shallow Caribbean water.

It was right at this point where I literally jumped over the guard rail and dragged my bike after me to leave the highway and join the Pelmewash Parkway along Wood Lake.  This was another inspired, spontaneous route change, as it was also a much quieter, more scenic road.  I think I may have also saved myself more climbing.

By the time the Pelemwash Parkway rejoined Highway 97, north of a place called Lake Country, I was more or less limping.  I could see my average speed falling quickly, as I was doing nothing more than intermitingly pedalling.  I was terribly hot, completely worn out, and my legs were sore, sore, sore.

Thankfully, I had less than 20 kilometres to go at this point and I managed to roll onto the University of British Columbia Okanagan campus, where I had a dorm room booked, just before 17:00.

After a long shower, I went for a dinner of an apple brie chicken burger, a big pint of Granville Island beer, and blueberry pie.  It felt awfully good to be done.

The UBCO campus is actually north of Kelowna itself, but it is more less across the street from the airport, so its a perfect place to spend the night before flying home tomorrow morning.  Whenever I come back, whether I fly in or come some other way, I will cycle from here to Vancouver.  But that will be another year.