North Bay to Callander, Ontario (again)

In 2018, I had intended to ride from Sault Ste Marie to Ottawa, but only got as far as North Bay. The problem was the shoulder, or lack thereof, on Highway 17. For the most part, past North Bay, there is no paved shoulder whatsoever or, where there is, it is all rumble strips so impossible to cycle on. At that time I spent a couple extra days in North Bay planning an alternative route, including cycling south of North Bay to explore. I concluded the best option was to head south, not east, from North Bay to Huntsville, then head east on Highway 60 through Algonquin Park, across the Ottawa River into Quebec, and south to Ottawa. This is certainly a longer route, but the piece that makes it most challenging is that from North Bay to Huntsville, while easy on the freeway Highway 11, is much more complicated by bike (bicycles are not allowed on Highway 11) and involves a lot back road riding. So, to make it work I not only needed more time, but a bike with bigger tires than I was using in 2018. 

I decided 2021 would be the year I would close this North Bay to Ottawa gap so started booking for around the May long weekend. Although I have now equipped my bike with tires adequate for the riding I would be doing, I opted to rent a bike in Ottawa, since I would be flying in and out of YOW anyway. The friendly and helpful Maria of Escape Bike Tours was brilliant in arranging what I would need.

Unfortunately, COVID-19 lockdowns made May travel impossible, but a few weeks later, here I am. I flew into YOW yesterday afternoon and picked up a rental car at the airport. This morning I visited Escape to pick up the bike.

I took it for a spin and all seemed well, so loaded her into the Jeep.

Four hours of driving later, or so, I was in North Bay. I dropped the Jeep at Enterprise, loaded up the bike, and rode the 17 kilometres southeast to the town of Callander. This was along the same route I biked in 2018 when I was exploring options. 

I am spending the night in a lovely suite at the Terrace Suites, just across the road from a lookout over Lake Nipissing.

North Bay to Maynooth, Ontario (in a Jeep)

I left North Bay this morning in a brand new Jeep that Enterprise rented me (it had 8 miles on its odometer!).

Rather than follow Highway 17, I went south on Highway 11 to Huntsville, stopping at a cute village called Powassan for breakfast.  From Huntsville I drove east into Algonquin Provincial Park.  This might be the route I take one day when I finish off North Bay to Ottawa--but for now I was just another tourist in the park.

The day was a little strange weather-wise, with a severe storm warning for the afternoon.  I got to the park around 12:00, and the sun was out and it seemed nice, so I started out hiking an 8 kilometre loop trail.

In just minutes the sky turned dark and rain started falling, so I decided I better turn back. 

I continued down the highway, and the rain was letting up, so I stopped to do a little 1.5 km loop boardwalk trail.  I decided to run it, and sure enough just a few minutes in it began to rain again.  I finished running the loop and headed to the park's visitor's centre, where I had a light lunch at the cafeteria and started learning a bit about the park, including that it is supposed to be the best place in Canada to see moose.

The rain stopped again while I was there, so I continued down the highway to a 2 km loop trail called Beaver Pond.

From the Beaver Pond trail head I drove further east, now alone on the highway.  So far I had enjoyed Algonquin quite a bit, but I was really hoping to see moose, and with the highway empty, it gave me more opportunity to scan the numerous ponds and ditches on either side.

Then, sure enough, I could barely believe my eyes, were three moose!

I pulled over into the shoulder immediately, and ran back.  This turned out to be a mistake, because obviously they did not appreciate the noise of my feet on the gravel.  I heard them moving around and crashing up into the brush from out of the water.  I could see them in the trees, but barely at all.  Darn it, I thought, and went back to the vehicle.

Then I heard more crashing, and out of the woods came mom!

I stood on the running board of the jeep so that the vehicle was between me and her, and she look at me and looked around, and then crossed the highway behind me.

Quickly I changed to video mode:

Eventually a car came along and they headed back into the woods.

Still thrilled from the moose sighting, I stopped just ahead at the logging museum, which involves another short (~1.5 km) trail with outdoor exhibits on logging.  

It proved quite interesting, and I was especially fascinated to learn that logging continues in the park today, albeit (apparently) 100% sustainably.

From the park I went south to a tiny place called Maynooth, which actually has a hostel in it.  

I checked in there, then headed west to see the part of Algonquin park that sticks down from the main rectangular part of the park.  

In the end there was not much to see here--what was once known as the south gate is now abandoned--and anyway it really began to storm while I was driving this stretch (presumably at roughly the same time two tornadoes were hitting Ottawa about 200 kilometres east of where I was).  

Back at the hostel I began to get worried about pain in my left big toe which had been bothering me since one of my earlier hikes.  I broke this toe 14 or 15 years ago and it often causes me discomfort, but this was far worse than anything I had felt since it was actually broken.  I decided I better get it checked out, so I drove down to a hospital in the nearby town of Bancroft.  I spent almost three hours in emergency, but eventually x-rays proved nothing broken, so I was relieved.  I had a beer at the Bancroft Brew Pub to celebrate.

North Bay to Callander, Ontario (and back, going nowhere)

I have been in North Bay since Monday afternoon when I arrived from Sudbury.  I had planned a rest day for Tuesday, but it was far from restful since I spent it trying to figure out the best way to get to Ottawa.

I drove out to Mattawa and even further on Highway 17.  While I enjoyed a few minutes at the Ottawa River in Mattawa . . .

. . . mostly the drive was depressing, because the highway is only worse east of North Bay than it has been on the way here.  In places the only paved shoulder is rumble strips, so cycling on it is impossible.

I could not figure out another route that was realistic.  I thought about cycling south on Highway 11, but I stopped at an Ontario Provincial Police station to see if that was allowed and they said no (because it is a controlled access highway).  I have a different possible plan that involves taking back roads south from North Bay, but I cannot figure out a way to make it work this week.

So, I gave up.  I remain extremely upset, but what can you do?  I should have put more effort into researching the highway, but too late now.  I will just have to come back and finish the route to Ottawa another time.

Since I was not continuing, I have stayed two extra days in North Bay, and today I did a ride out around Lake Nipissing through a village called Callander, for a total of 50 kilometres.  It was a great ride, but frustrating that it was not getting me anywhere in terms of across Canada.

For some of the ride today I was following the Voyageur Trail, which is supposed to end up connecting North Bay and Ottawa along the Ottawa River, so maybe one day this will be an option for me.  For now though it goes no further than Mattawa.

Today's ride could also be part of my alternative southern route (which would involve riding south on back roads to Huntsville, and then east on Highway 60 through Algonquin Provincial Park to Ottawa), and at least as far as I went the road was a dream.  Just look at that paved shoulder!

On the way back to North Bay I stopped in Callander for lunch at a neat little lakeside bistro.

My tomato soup was made from tomatoes like these which were ripening outside.  I found that pretty cool.

Meanwhile, I have swung a deal with Enterprise to let me drive a car to Ottawa and drop it at the airport there, so tomorrow I will be driving rather than cycling that way.

Sudbury to North Bay, Ontario

This morning I rode out of Sudbury, joining Highway 17 about 10 kilometres east of the city.  From that point I stayed on the highway all the way to North Bay.

For much of the day it was a lovely ride, and I made great time (averaging 25 kmph), but you can see how narrow the paved shoulder was in places--and in many spots it was even worse--sometimes I could not even ride to the right of the white line.

Sometime after 13:00 I reached Sturgeon Falls, just north of the west part of Lake Nipissing, where I stopped at an A&W for some lunch.  That sweet root beer from the frosted mug always tastes especially good after a day of cycling.

Shortly after Sturgeon Falls, the highway runs along the lake, so I had great views to my right as I approached North Bay.

I am staying at a hotel downtown a couple blocks from the lake, so I rode into the city on Main Street.

After checking in, showering, etc., I called down to the Enterprise Rent-A-Car for a pick up.  Tomorrow I am taking a rest day, so I am renting a car to get around.  I am also very anxious about continuing on Highway 17 after the shoulder I had today, so I intend to see what alternatives there might be tomorrow.

This evening I walked down to the lake front to enjoy the sunset and read my novel.  I was very impressed with its beauty!

For dinner I ate at Mr. Pancho, a surprisingly authentic Mexican place close by my hotel.